Brockenchack are a relatively new label in Barossa – but their vineyards in Eden Valley, South Australia, have some of Australia’s oldest Riesling vines, planted in 1896. It is a label that is finding many fans now that the wines are available in New Zealand. The intriguing name also isn’t, as some people might assume, an old Barossa German name from generations back. It actually comes from an amalgamation of the owners Grandchildren’s names – Bronte, MacKenzie, Charli and Jack. They were awarded ‘Eden Valley Winery of the Year’ at the 2021 Melbourne International Wine Show.
Whilst the land high in the Eden Valley has been a vineyard since the 1880s, it was only in 2007 that Queensland residents Trev and Marilyn Harch bought the property. They’ve grown the Estate to over 120 hectares, with seventeen under vine, by acquiring neighbouring land. The plan is to develop the family-owned and run label into one of the regions powerhouses – with those infamous grandchildren involved in all of that. Their Riesling vines are growing close by that other local favourite – Shiraz. They also have plantings of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. Here are my thoughts on the latest wines…
Brockenchack Tru-Su Rosé 2022 A single vineyard wine, made from Shiraz. A pale rose petal pink in the glass, with aromas of raspberry, melon, apple and jasmine florals. Bright, elegant and polished into the palate, where a buoyant acidity highlights the juicy fruit. Spice and a little fruit tannin add complexity, but it’s not a difficult or intellectual wine – just open and enjoy, with lunch or as an aperitif. 90pts
Brockenchack Hare Hunter Pinot Noir 2019 A dark ruby-burgundy in the glass, with a coltish, succulent perfume. Plum, bramble and cherry meet dried herb and savoury notes of mushroom, burdock, salami and peat. The palate delights with a lighter tone then the nose suggests – flowing acidity and supple, chalky tannins form the core, but the dark fruits persist and the whole is very well balanced. Spice builds and the oak plays off that, with a toasty, exotic note of incense and cedar. A generous, lingering finish. 92pts
Brockenchack McKenzie William 1896 Riesling 2021 A killer nose of orchard fruits and breezy florals. Very dry and yet with such spicy, mouth-watering fruit. It is both tight and structured, and yet jazzy and free-flowing at the same time; the two things creating a real energy and brio through the palate. Acidity is brisk and gives great direction and length through the mound of citrus, ginger, mandarin and apple flavours. Potential for cellaring and development here. 92pts
Brockenchack ‘Megan Jane’ Grenache 2020 Taking you on a journey that starts light, delicate and breezy. An initial pop of cherry, raspberry, blood orange and bergamot starts to develop deeper spice, nougat and phenolic tang. Lovely, svelte tannin and a swell of acidity as the wine intensifies and gets more torque through the palate. A lush, polished finish, with super length. 94pts
Brockenchack Zip Line Shiraz 2020 A deep, brooding purple in the glass, with plump, robust aromas of damson, boysenberry, blueberry muffin, peppercorn, mocha and cloves. Great balance of acidity, a char of toasty oak and chewy tannin. Great varietal typicity and true to the rich, ripe Barossa style – there’s mint, liquorice and earthiness in the mix; and the finish is softly textured, inkily rich and easy to like. 90pts
