I had the chance this afternoon to taste through the 2021 wines that have just been released from Escarpment, with Chief Winemaker Tim Bourne. 2021 was ‘a small yet exceptional’ vintage in Martinborough – with above average summer temperatures, leading to good ripeness and concentration in the fruit. The resulting wines are ‘an accurate reflection of the district’s unique terroir’ according to the iconic producer. I kick off with their excellent, under-rated Chardonnay and then dive into a trip through the different personality of the Pinots.
Escarpment Martinborough Chardonnay 2021 With most of the fruit coming from the Home Block on Te Muna Road on the Martinborough Terraces, this is a wine where the style has evolved in the last few years – a move away from the flinty reductivity that was in vogue a few years back, and showing more elegance and balance. There is still an element of that minerally struck-match note to the nose, but tempered by a plush peach, lemon peel, cashew nut, grapefruit and gingery spices. That opulent aroma sets the tone for the palate, with some really bright and clean acidity giving real line and crispness – for a wine with real succulence, this has terrific flow. 93pts
Escarpment Martinborough Pinot Noir 2021 A collection of fruit from across the best of Martinborough’s vineyards – 60% of it from Te Muna Road specifically. A medium-depth of ruby-garnet red in the glass, with that classic ‘Martinborough’ perfume of dark red fruits, rare steak, lavender and an earthy ‘forest floor’ savouriness. Medium-bodied and lithe into the palate, where that juxtaposition of plush pomegranate and redcurrant juice meets dried herbs and roast mushrooms. There’s a nice rasp of tannin across the palate, and subtle oak definition. Again, the character of this wine continues to be defined – more purity and finesse… less grunt. Sharper, with less blunt power. I like this. 94pts
Escarpment Kiwa Pinot Noir 2021 The Kiwa vineyard is planted on the Martinborough Terrace alluvial gravels, in the Martinborough township, and is usually the first pick for Escarpment in any vintage. The perfume is distinctive, with a waft of whole-bunch influenced spice and dried flowers on the nose. Perhaps the most graceful of the single vineyard expressions, with waves of juicy acidity and walking a tightrope where the balance of ripeness, savoury character, firm tannin and spicy oak all merge into an elegant harmony. This can sometimes take time to deliver, and whilst the 2021 wine has plenty of tense energy, the focus is already set. This is drinking beautifully now, with even more potential for future development. 95pts
Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir 2021 This 1.1 hectare vineyard, on Huangarua Road close to the Martinborough town centre, was planted in 1990 using as many clones of Pinot Noir that were available. Diversity in planting material and the alluvial loams lead to a wine in the glass that is classic ‘old school’ Martinborough. Quite dense and dark, with black cherry, cassis, damson and five spice on the nose. The brooding nature continues into the palate – quite robust and generous. Tannin has a firm grip and the spice is quite defined – the two combining to black tea, tapenade and crushed bay notes. Very upfront and broad shouldered, this one may take time to soften those edges and evolve – one to put away for a while. 94pts
Escarpment Pahi Pinot Noir 2021 You’ll find the Pahi Vineyard on Te Muna Road adjacent to the Escarpment Vineyard, with the same alluvial, free-draining gravel soils that this sub-region is known for. A hugely aromatic perfume with a spicy but light touch of red cherry, cranberry, cinnamon and red peppercorns. Medium-bodied in the palate, silky and glossy – not just the texture, but the tannins too. Again, I see charcuterie and savoury elements develop, but the overlying picture here is finesse, framing a flush of fruit and leaving a suggestion of plumpness. A well-articulated expression. 94pts
Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir 2021 The Kupe Pinot Noir is made entirely from Abel clone grapes first planted in 1999, grown on alluvial gravels on the Martinborough Terrace at the Escarpment home block on Te Muna Road. A dense, deep burgundy red in the glass. The fragrance is equally deep – a complex salvo of black cherry, smoky spices, bramble, orange peel, a smudge of oak and lilac floral top notes. A density of tannin sits firm and unforgiving (at this youthful stage). Concentrated and satisfying, but hard to judge at this stage if this is will turn out to be a legendary wine, or just a fantastic one. Probably worth a punt! 96pts
