Tasted on a recent visit to the winery in the Yarra Valley, Victoria. A pale golden-green in the glass. A good swirl of air delivers nectarine, mandarin, cashew, green herbs, lemon rind and a malty, smokiness with just a hint of flinty reductivity. Bold and powerful, with that line of lean, zesty acidity and al dente toothsomeness that announces the ‘modern Australian Chardonnay’ that I see throughout the visit. Well-balanced with that drive and line through the palate not leaving the lush fruit and silky texture behind, but carrying it along to a fine, pithy finish. 93pts