Just another night of apocalyptic rain in Auckland (I know who’d have thought it..?) sees my entrance to the rather elegant Northern Club in a state of distinctly non-elegance, giving the impression of a drowned rat swimming ashore from a shipwrecked boat. Luckily everyone is too polite to pat an eyelid as I squelch into the room. The iconic Marlborough producer is here to showcase their latest wines – a mostly red-heavy lineup, which suits this wintery evening.
I confess I neither knew that they produced a Fromm Chenin/Chardonnay 2019, nor had tasted it. It reminded me however of a wine I’d tasted just yesterday – and one from a year ago. Daniel Brennan makes a ‘Crispy White’ for his Giunta label that is Chardonnay, Viognier and Chenin Blanc, and the ‘CV’ from Tietjen Witters heads down a similar blending path. Stephan tells me this 2019 is a one-off. It isn’t a hugely complex wine – with straight-foward, crisp grapefruit and stonefruit flavours. A hint of green herbals and has a really electric acidity. The finish has a mandarin, citrus-curd note.
A set of Pinot Noirs next – these are the wines that I first think of when I’m asked about Fromm. Fromm Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020 is from their dry-farmed Home Block and is ‘on-trend’ with a lighter colour that seems to be par for the course in the last couple of years. The colour is actually a rust-red with just a hint of dusty spice into the palate as well. There is rosehip, cranberry and blood orange fruit, but also roasted souk spices and a loamy, forest floor note. With that side of earthiness the palate is still quite tight and crunchy. Intriguing.
Fromm Clayvin Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 sometimes overshadows the rest of the range – this iconic patch of earth in Marlborough being so well-regarded these days. A single vineyard expression, filled with a dark and brooding muscularity. Heroic tannins. Sour cherry, menthol and plum. Dry, concentrated and dense, it barrels along to a zesty, lengthy finish.
The Fromm Pinot Noir 2020 is a field blend of five vineyards – produced a wine of exceptional balance. Driven by juicy acidity it shows lots of crushed shell minerality alongside some distinctive fruity flavours of rhubarb, redcurrant and bing cherry. As a contrast, the Fromm Cuvée H Pinot Noir 2020 is a blend of chosen barrels. This takes a little time to bloom. As a young wine that is made for the long haul, it needs air – unfurling into a brightly perky thing that dances across the palate. Quite piquant at first, the red fruit flavours bleed into the palate slowly, developing a surge of succulence and satisfying depth. I really like this one.
Fromm are one of only a handful of wineries that produce a Syrah in Marlborough. As they say – “In Marlborough Syrah is right on the edge of its growing limits because of the cool climate, yet it pleasantly surprises us time and time again”. Fromm Syrah 2020 is from a dry-farmed vineyard and incorporates 3% Viognier in the ferments. A richly aromatic wine, perfumed with notes of plum, blackcurrant and tobacco. The acidity balances well with the youthful exhuberance. Fromm Vineyard Syrah 2019 has a little more depth and intensity. Still very lush and juicy, but with more drive and sinew. This will be a super food wine – the little canapés that appeared in front of us were a lovely foil to this Syrah.
The last two wines are a pair of Malbecs. Fromm Malbec Fromm Vineyard 2018 has a surprising creaminess to the perfume. The palate is clean and tart of course – actually quite meaty and robust, with a peppercorn savouriness that is very appealing. A robust tannin profile and tight through the core of the wine. Fromm Malbec Fromm Vineyard 2019 is also from just six barrels, due to the low-cropping dry-farmed vineyard (which is the oldest single vineyard Malbec in the country). A funky bouquet which has liquorice, damson, white pepper and date. I found the palate a touch edgy, a bit elbows and knees at this stage. I’d be looking at this a decade down the line when some of those blocks should have integrated and smoothed out.
The last of ten wines is another rarity which Stephan puts his salesman hat on for and gives it a big push. Fromm Sauvignon Blanc 2022 Sweet Reserve is quite delicate – sweet, yes, and lively too. Plenty of pineapple, whitecurrant and peach fruits, slathered in honey and topped with crushed herbs – quite the party. A fairly simple wine, but delicious.
