There are a few iconic New Zealand labels that I look forward to receiving each year, as they set a benchmark not only for the vintage, but for other producers to aspire to – and give critics, writers and reviewers a sense of “how things are going”. For example, if the Kumeu River Chardonnays are tasting superb on release, then the bar is set for others to follow, and expectations follow. Such is the case for Valli and Central Otago Pinot Noir. There are many other top-level wineries in the region of course, but not all will happily serve their new release wines up for review to a variety of wine writers.
Valli Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2021
A vibrant garnet-burgundy colour in the glass, with a seductive fragrance that springs from the glass. On the nose, lavender and rose petal set the tone, with thyme, sumac, chamomile and white pepper underneath and a glossy burst of cherry, elderberry and cranberry fruits fleshing things out. A more savoury edge to the palate, as root beer, graphite and loam notes add depth over what is a fresh, inviting and joyous first sip. A tightness to the grip of tannin just now, and the acidity has a wonderful rasp to it, bouncing through the layers of spiced fruit to emerge at a dry finish with great length. 94pts
Valli Gibbston Pinot Noir 2021
Savoury, herbal aromatics of thyme, amaro, fennel and peppercorn mingle with the dark cherry, mulberry and strawberry. The palate is a study in texture, silken and verdant. Those savoury notes show again in an earthiness to the black tea-flecked, supple tannin, balanced and bolstered by lithe acidity. That core carries the wine beautifully, with an elegance and confident energy pulsing through the palate. Perhaps the most elegant of the range, and the one that is the most hesitant to reveal its layers of intrigue and nuance. Stay with it and, for now, decant before tasting, and hide at least one bottle away from yourself for future enjoyment, if you can. The finish is super-long, harmonic and generous. 96pts
Valli Bendigo Pinot Noir 2021
Showing an inky ruby colour in the glass, and a rich, spicy perfume of black cherry, redcurrant, bramble and damson fruits accented with nutmeg, tapenade and cedar. The flow of acidity is fresh and lively, giving a lift to the fruit that is both dark and bright. The palate holds a little mystery in its autumnal savouriness of incense and warm earth. There is power here, but depth & shape, with some of the elements slowly emerging from the shade. Oak is beautifully integrated, the infamous Bendigo tannin is tamed – quite fine and chiselled. Plush, with a youthful vigour now, this drinks very well, but has the structure and complexity to develop into an absolute gem. 95pts
Valli Waitaki Pinot Noir 2021
Opening with a flash of dried herb, lilac and cherry blossom, the aromatics on this Pinot are both intriguing and beguiling. More in the soft red-fruited spectrum of raspberry, cherry, pomegranate and rosehip, but then there is also a forest floor note of dried leaves, mushroom and peat. There is a tension into the palate – the acidity giving a briney line through the succulent fruits, and a pulse of concentration and energy ebbs and flows. Tannin is svelte and the oak quietly supporting. The finish is clean, defined and satisfying. As does the Bendigo expression, this Pinot seems to show a heightened sense of place each vintage. 96pts
