A single vineyard wine from Martinborough. A golden straw colour in the glass, with an ‘old school’ perfume that is as golden as the colour. Quince, apricot, nectarine, mandarin, oatmeal and vanilla on the nose. There’s a phenolic tickle of peach fuzz and apple skin on the palate. Full-bodied, rich and generous with a spine of spicy oak. Cardamom, a little graphite tang, popcorn, muesli and a lees-influenced nuttiness all come through in layers. An alcohol heat also dances on the tongue. A mixed bag – in turns it seems serious, then blousey, and then it finished dry and with reasonable length. Confusing, but has potential – would revisit in six months. 91pts