From the unusually warm, and short, season of 2016, comes this Yarra Valley Syrah – the premium single vineyard range for this producer, made in tiny quantities. The perfume is alluring but shows density and complexity. Damson plum, white pepper, boysenberry, tar, fruit cake, cherry and a smoky, roasted spice. Quite firm and intense on the palate – needs some air (decant it). Savoury notes of charcuterie, cayenne pepper and black olive balance out some ripe fruit and a sweeter layer of chocolate-coated liquorice. The verdant tannin is very fine, and you’ll see some oak influence at this stage, but it is a generous, broad-shouldered example of Yarra Shiraz that should cellar well for another decade. 94pts