I found time this week to run through the latest wines from one of my favourite small labels – B.wine from Martinborough. I’d dropped in to see Christine Burki at their lovely Cellar door on Kitchener St, just a stones throw from the village centre. Unfortunately partner and winemaker Raphael was on one of his overseas jaunts – not only is he a maker of great wines from the Wairarapa, but he spends time every year making fine Barolos amongst other things!
I went through their range of wines – mostly the ones from their Lime Hill Vineyard, which they planted in 2013 – and found them to be very good indeed, from 94 to 91/100. Today was a chance to taste through some updates, or wines I hadn’t tried before.
B.wine Sauvignon Blanc 2022 is made from fruit off Hamden Estate in Martinborough itself – only 1300 bottles are produced. Aromas of blackcurrant, fennel, grapefruit, jalapeno and cucumber – similar but different from your typical New Zealand style. A peppery minerality floods into the palate on a wave of tart acidity. Calm, serious and precise – as savoury as it is fruity. The finish is zesty and leaves a lovely dry prickle on the tongue. 93pts
Two Chardonnays to look at today – and it is super-interesting to look at these side-by-side and compare. B.wine Martinborough Chardonnay 2021 is also from Hamden Estate, and sees about 20% new oak in fermentation. Given a toasty, nutty perfume from that, and weaves some white peach, lemon peel and grapefruit notes into the nose too. Again, a serious expression – quite tight and linear with saline acidity and some savoury flavours alongside that ripe fruit. 93pts
The B.wine Lime Hill Chardonnay 2021 from their own vineyard’s Mendoza clone Chardonnay shows more golden fruit, with quince, apricot and nectarine on the nose. The palate takes a more savoury route, with tarragon, weetbix, juniper and green olive to offset that fruit and add complexity as it goes. Has a quartzy, almost electric energy and acidity running through the middle, and into a weighty finish. 94pts
B.wine Pinot Noir 2021 is a Martinborough wine – from the Te Muna Terrace. The smoky, cinnamon and sumac scented nose probably owes a little to the 20% whole bunch component. The perfume also shows plum, cherry, rosehip and tobacco notes – sweet-fruited but spicy. A phenolic tickle that also shows in the tannin – chewy and supple. Has a confident balance through the palate and into an earthy, lingering finish. 92pts
The final wine is a single-vineyard version I’ve not tried – B.wine Gladstone Syrah 2021 from the Lynfer Vineyard. Aromatically diverse – with the tar and roses you’d expect from a Nebbiolo, some cassis and blackcurrant (Cabernet Sauvignon?) but then I see black pepper and liquorice that leans into Syrah character. A pulse of succulent red berry flavours and really sinewy tannins give a deep richness to the palate. The acidity is refreshing and brightens the finish. 92pts
