A Bannockburn wine from the Long Gully vineyard near the Kawarau River – one of the oldest sites in the region. The wine is ten years old now, but bright and vibrant – a straw gold in the glass, with a little green to the edges. Distinctively aromatic – a blast of banana esters, some over-ripe pears and then rockmelon, apricot, quince, honeysuckle and braised fennel. A bit off-putting and not instantly appealing. The palate sets that aside though, with a sweet intensity and chalky minerality. That 51g/l residual sugar is buoyed by brisk acidity and it doesn’t feel weighty – at 9.5% alcohol, it is really quite light on its feet. A waxy texture rounds the palate out and the finish is balanced and succulent. 89pts