A rare wine from Martinborough, only made in exceptional years – and not often – I can only recall two other occasions I might have tasted this wine, from a handful of vintages. A fairly dark ruby in the glass, opaque, and with a little brick red – age – showing around the edges. The Martinborough savoury signature of peat, smoked meat and mint-herbals is there, alongside a red cherry, almond and blackcurrant. Quite dramatic on the oak – this is a statement bottling – but that sits well in this wine, toasty and forthright, framing the fruit. The age has mellowed that ripeness, but what you have is a well-balanced core where that big oak and fine tannin sits nicely next to the acidity and fruit. The finish is rich and generous, and is the lasting impression. 94pts