A Malbec from Kangaroo Island in South Australia. Varietally true, showing an inky purple colour in the glass. Perfumed with dark plum, bay leaf, cheese rind, tobacco, bramble, cacao nib and star anise. Showing plenty of extraction in the firm palate, this is a brooding, dark wine, with sinew and power. Tannin is heroic – chewy, gnarly and yet deliciously fine and ripe. Oak plays a part here too – no escaping the charry, tarry depth of the spine to this very tight, structured wine. I imagine that this was impenetrable as a baby, and it is still worth opening the bottle well in advance, then decanting and it will shine on day 2, even now – with six years of age after vintage. Ripe, sweet fruit is balanced well with a savoury note of black olive and incense, as well as liquorice in a plush, deep finish. 95pts