It’s not every day that you get the opportunity to do a virtual tasting tour of a faraway destination, from the comfort of your own doorstep. In this case, from the rather plush Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron Headquarters in Westhaven Marina, Auckland – when the Gambero Rosso Top Italian Wine Roadshow hits town.
To me, Italian wines bring to mind rich reds and lighter, fresh whites – with the reds being particularly enjoyable. Price-wise these wines are generally great value. It is only once you climb to the top end of any given classification – such as DOGC – controlled and guaranteed Designation of Origin – that you get to expensive (and hard to find) wines. What was impressive therefore on a spin around the room on Sunday – was the quality and drinkability of the white wines. Prosecco, of course – the impeccable Valdobbiadene from Villa Sandi – but also a delicious Borgo Conventi Collio Friulano come immediately to mind.
The range of reds on offer was comprehensive – of the ones I tried, a lovely San Felice Bolgheri Rosso Bell’Aja and a Brunello di Montalcino Villa al Cortile – both from Tuscany, and hard to walk past the stand of Fontanafredda and not enjoy a taste of the Barolo Vigna La Rosa from Piedmont.
Luckily I’ve scored an invitation to the morning masterclass as well – where the two editors of the Vino d’Italia wine guidebook regale us with stories (lots of stories) and information over a tasting of nine examples of the latest wines from across the regions of Italy. Listening to these two eloquent gents, you can only wonder what a marvellous job it must be to be working amongst the staff at Gambero Rosso – the lunches must be legendary!
A quick run through some notes from this sensational presentation…
We start off with four whites – the first is a Bortolomiol Valdobbiadene Brut Ius Naturae 2021 – a Prosecco with a lovely frisson of minerality on the aromatic nose and into the palate. A fine mousse of bubbles, some pithy fruit tannin and lovely spicy fruit flavours of ginger, lemongrass and mandarin peel. The next white is a Friuli Pinot Grigio 2021 from Le Monde. Possibly the white wine of the day, and an eye-opener to someone who grew up in Europe and has had more than anyone’s fair share of bland, tart Pinot Grigio. A pink-copper colour with a dusty, creamy nose of pear, red apple, nutmeg and redcurrant. Saline, with a ‘good bitterness’ of dried herbs and fennel. A touch in the ‘natural’ style, but with great character and just lovely drinking.
To Sicily next, and Tenuta Gorghi Tondi Meridiano 12 2021. Very dry, with a zesty apricot and almond nose, then a brisk acidity with some dried mango and herbal notes. I think I prefer my Etna Rossos! The last of the whites was, again, a really interesting wine. We like interesting at WineFolio! Italo Cescon Madre 2018 was a deep, hazy golden colour – skins-y and leaning in the orange style. Made from a Pinot Blanc-Riesling cross varietal, this was full-bodied, briney and flinty. Get past that appearance and initial introduction, and here is a fairly straightforward, delicious wine.
A pair of Tuscan reds followed – Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva di Fizzano 2018. From the Sangiovese grape, and a wine that’s not too heavy but posseses vast tannin power and has lovely savoury character alongside those dark fruits and spices. My favourite red of the class was also from Sangiovese – Tenute del Cerro Val di Cornia Rosso Poggio Miniera 2013. Seemingly more coastal, with a hint of salinity, iodine almost, and a lively palate with red fruits, blood orange and negroni. Delightful rich nose and long, spicy finish.
We head to Piedmont next and what’s not to like about a Pio Cesare Barolo Mosconi 2018? Other than it’s pretty young to be trying this exciting new single-vineyard wine – but, I do prefer my Nebbiolo a little younger than conventions would dictate – around six years is good for me, rather than the fifteen that seems to be the norm. Refined and elegant although very tight and young. Blue fruits and cranberry, whitecurrant, cherries. Chewy, chalky tannins and cracking acidity. Tar, rose petal notes on the finish. Great. A treat.
We finish in ‘the heel’ with a pair of Primitivo wines. Tenuta Viglione Gioia del Colle Primitivo Sellato 2019 is a big rich softy. Brooding and concentrated with black fruits, plenty of alcohol heat and a real wintery balm of a wine. Nice acidity though – higher altitude vineyard maybe? Paolo Leo Primitivo di Manduria Passo del Cardinale 2020 is our final wine, another spicy, herbal deep red. Great value for this type of wine – a winner for winter, or red meat dishes – BBQ steak and so forth. Warm, ripe and unctuous.
