From the label with a claim on being New Zealand’s original Fine Wine Estate, with 125 years of continuous production. Famed for its top tier wine ‘Coleraine’ but also producing one of the nation’s top Syrahs – ‘Bullnose’ and an excellent Bordeaux blend ‘Awatea’.
It is the latter I get to have a closer look at today, with three bottles of the last three vintages…all considered to be ‘fantastic quality’ by Te Mata. Awatea is naturally compared to the big brother, but don’t forget to factor in the price.
Awatea 2020
Constructed from (in 2020) 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. A dense ruby-hued wine, with a dark purple edge. An excellent nose of cedary smokiness, crushed herbs, rose petal and sweet, dark red fruits leads into a palate with more of the same. Quite dense and young, but well-balanced and quite a serious structure. Flush with ripe fruit – cassis, plum and red cherry coming through, wrapped in a blanket of vanilla oak, and underpinned with grippy tannins. Well crafted, and although quite tight now, the robust complexity and bright acidity suggest a good ten years cellaring potential. 94pts
Awatea 2019
This one has a much higher Cabernet Franc component – at 22%, with 46% Cabernet sauvignon and 32% Merlot. A dark cola-red colour, with youthful, smokiness and filled with bay leaf, black cherry, blood orange, blackcurrant, spice and dried autumn leaves aromas. Somehow Pinot-esque, but also with some mossy, resinous tones from the Franc. Dry, complex and with some coiled power and energy. As savoury as it is brimming with plush black fruits. A distinctive umami flavour that tends towards kalamata olives, soy and black tea, but then with a stony gravel-earth minerality. Compelling and filled with character. Best of the three. 95pts
Awatea 2018
A blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. Near black purple coloured in the glass. An enticing nose, perfumed with blackberry, camphor, thyme, damson, flowering rosemary and sour cherry. Great concentration, with an elegant, traditional ‘old world’ sense to it. Generous, with more Campari/bitters, raspberry, tar, tangerine, spice and dark chocolate notes, opening up in layers as the wine itself unfurls. Powerful and with real drive – excellent acidity and bookended with firm tannins. Needs more time, but is showing huge potential and drinkability already. 93pts
