What was Tony’s top level wine (before ‘Zen’) this barrel-fermented wine comes from the much-admired, dry-farmed Skeetfield vineyard in Dartmoor, Hawke’s Bay.
An effusive nose, serving up red apple, sweetcorn, nectarine, browned butter, chamomile, cardamom and orange blossom. Delicately balanced, but with precise, concentrated power. A grapefruity acidity drives the line through the palate, where a rich, tropical ripeness lingers. As the layers open up, there’s a mealy, biscuit crumb sandwich, with vanilla cream filling, and a nutty, spicy seasoning of nicely integrated oak. It’s got obvious, tight oak, but just a warming nuance – not an overpowering faceful. Added to the dynamic acidic line, the texture is another reason to lose yourself in this Chardonnay – plush, decadent and unctuous, but never blowsy or loose. The fact that there’s character and harmony that can stroll hand in hand through this wine, shows a craftsman in top form. Seamless. Not perfect, but definitely a special wine. 96pts.
