Esk Valley winemaker Gordon Russell best known wine is his iconic red field blend ‘The Terraces’ but in my opinion was perhaps at his best when creating wines for the ‘Winemakers Reserve’ range. This tier included Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, a red blend and occasional forays into other varietals for the Cellar Door; but perhaps my favourite of them all is the Syrah. Grown on the Cornerstone Vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels in a great vintage for Hawke’s Bay reds.
A dense, dark purple colour in the glass. The bouquet is intense, ripe and, importantly floral. There is also spice – white pepper in particular but also clove and star anise. Plum, boysenberry, tapenade, black cherry and a hint of something medicinal and herbal alongside that violet floral. Plush, glossy fruit is carried on the still-vivid acidity. Tannins are pliant and well-integrated. A touch of terroir comes through in iron earth and stony minerality. The finish is very pure and clear – this is Gimblett Gravels Syrah in essence, and right up there with the very best of them. 95pts
