The Mt Maude vineyard was planted in 1994 on the steep north-facing slopes of the Maungawera Valley, just outside of Wanaka, by Dawn & Terry Wilson – and at time when it was one of the first ten vineyards planted in the region. Their daughter Sarah-Kate (SK) was encouraged to study winemaking and during her travels ended up in the Hunter Valley of New South Wales. It was there that she met and has since married another winemaker – Dan Dineen.
In 2004 the company looked for more land beyond the Mt Maude boundaries. Some was leased, and extra fruit was bought from growers that met their high quality standards. As SK and Dan returned home, a winery came next – in 2006, and gradually Maude became more than just a little cult label. I remember discovering the Chardonnay around fifteen years ago and thinking it was the best one I’d had from Central Otago. Funnily enough when I first met Dan a couple of years ago he told me “Yes, we need more Chardonnay – the family seem to drink most of what we make!”
November 2024 dealt a challenging blow with a frost that just couldn’t be beaten – not even by a 6 hours of helicopter attention. You won’t find any current bottles of their rather good rieslings for example. You can however try the Sauvignon Blanc that they’ve been making since 2012, or the Méthode that spends two and a half years on lees and has a healthy dose of reserve wine that has had stocks gradually built up in a solera over the years. That wine won the WineFolio Top 10 Tasting of Sparkling – https://winefolio.co.nz/?p=7313.
Ben and Felicity of Eurovintage were generous hosts of a Masterclass at Gilt Restaurant in Auckland – where SK took us through all of the recent releases a few days ago.
Maude Sauvignon Blanc 2025 is one of a few excellent examples I’ve tried of crisp, dry whites coming from Central in the last year. Blackcurrant and mint, bath salts and lavender. A lovely textural mid-palate and whilst it is a robust drop, the brash acidity that’s a signature of the region is fine and quite muted here.
Maude Pinot Gris 2025 has a portion sourced from Rafters Road in Gibbston. A bright, almost funky nose shows musk, spice, almond and ginger with pear and a touch of honey. The warmth of a partial barrel-ferment adds to an oily breadth across the palate. A prickle of tannin then a drier finish.
Maude Chardonnay 2024 has developed a touch more delicacy over the years, although the richness is still there through the palate. Perfumed with white peach, grapefruit, orange curd, cashew nut and a hint of herbaceousness. Dry, viscous and minerally, with energy to burn.
Maude ‘Mt Maude’ Chardonnay 2024 still has the very flinty nose of old. Serious, with a whap of toasty barrel spice also showing on the nose. Ripe but not heavy, it is light on its feet. A spicy layer appears mid-palate and stays into the persistent finish.
Maude Poison Creek Pinot Noir 2024 shows bright ruby in the glass. The bouquet is super spicy and floral, with a pop of fruit. Solid graphite-flecked tannins and juicy acidity. Driven and energetic, with excellent length in the palate.
Maude Mohawk Hill Pinot Noir 2024 has around 30% whole bunch in the winemaking, and this drives the perfume, with toasted souk spices and a blast of rose petal and violet florals. The palate turns juicy and jubey though, with redcurrant, cherry and an abundance that contrasts the nose.
Maude East Meets West Pinot Noir 2024 comes from the parcels either side of what is saved for the Mt Maude Reserve. Carbonic maceration gives a blocky, funky brightness that starts in the herbal perfume then pervades the palate. Has some attack on the palate, before settling into more width and generosity.
Maude Kid’s Block 2024 showcases the treasured 10/5 clone that really comes into its own in its teenage years. A bright burgundy colour in the glass, and has a glossy, generous width. Often my favourite of the single vineyards – with spice, juice, tannin and acidity working in a seamless harmony.
Maude Pinot Noir 2024 takes fruit from across their regional sites and is a quintessential Central Otago expression of Pinot Noir. Succulent and juicy, with chewy tannin and bright acidity showcasing the cherry, plum and cranberry flavours very well.
Maude Mt Maude Reserve Pinot Noir 2024 shows that kind of ‘Reserve wine’ broad shoulders that customers might expect, and want. With a higher percent of whole bunch in the winemaking, the perfume here is intoxicating – very plump and spicy on the nose. There is firm concentration, tension but also weight and density. Tannin has rasp and sinew, but this is a well-polished and well-balanced wine.
Maude Pinot Noir 2014 is poured from a magnum, and is a lovely contrast to the youthful wines that precede it. This has decadent secondary characters of cigar box and leather. Violets on the nose, and a dense core of succulently ripe red fruits. Satisfying depth and clearly enough structure to carry on for a few more years yet.
