A Central Otago wine from a vineyard on a rocky and exposed northern ridge of free-draining loess gravels. The ten years in bottle shows a little in the colour, with a tinge of brick-red to the edges of the dark ruby in the glass. A complex and elegant perfume has equal parts of fleshy black fruits, toasted oak and a leafy, herbal highlight. As savoury as it is plush. Dry and medium-bodied, there is a lithe movement throughout the palate, between the crisp acidity, chalky tannins and a peaty, ‘sous bois’ character. Plenty of energy and time left to develop from this vintage – the wine may show more layers and tertiary character on the second day after opening. Great length and persistence to the finish. 94pts