The Calrossie vineyard is on a hillside site in Marlborough’s lower Awatere Valley. The wines and brand have been taken on by Wine Diamonds and being distributed through their channels. I had the chance to have a taste recently through the single vineyard wines – a 2020 Chardonnay and the 2015 Grand Reserve Pinot Noir; plus from nearby vineyards (but under the Calrossie label) the 2023 Pinot Noir Rosé.
Calrossie Chardonnay 2020 is a bright golden colour in the glass, with green flashes at the edges. The perfume shows lovely wild-ferment characters, with a nip of struck match, lemon curd, hazelnut, grapefruit, apple and oatmeal biscuit. A gentle toast and spice from the oak is evident – it has a modern-meets-old-school personality – and there’s a brisk saline lick of acidity. Savoury notes of tarragon, white pepper and green olive add complexity, with a touch of stony minerality as well. The finish is dry, generous and has excellent length. 94pts
Calrossie Pinot Noir Rosé 2023 has that elegant very pale coral-pink colour that appeals to customers today. Very on-trend – especially when you taste that very dry palate. Crunchy notes of raspberry, cranberry, orange peel and sour cherry are highlighted by the crisp acidity. Quite serious in style, with just enough velvet to the texture to save it from erring towards too much tartness. 91pts
The Calrossie ‘Grand Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2015 is perhaps the best expression of the vineyard. The clay soils lend weight and generosity to the fruit profile, and this shows in both the Chardonnay but particularly in this Pinot. Whilst it is showing just a little rust colour to the opaque burgundy in the glass, the scent doesn’t reveal much in the way of ageing. Bright fruit flavours of dark cherry, damson, elderberry and blood orange join a slather of savoury elements like mushroom, cured meats, mocha and autumn leaves. Complex, concentrated and with a medium to full-bodied muscle through the palate. Again, oak shows its hand – framing the fruit and along with some supple tannins, forming a spine. The finish is quite gentle but with good length. 94pts
