Tasted with winemaker Ray Nadeson in Auckland recently. The fruit comes from Rebenberg Vineyard on Mount Duneed, Geelong – this is their top-tier white wine. A medium golden green in the glass. The scent has a flinty struck-match reductivity as the opening, flowing into a complex, incense-laden perfume of white peach, pear, roast almond, lime, weetbix, white pepper, tarragon and lemon blossom. As befits a wine of over a dozen years of age, it has a terrific textural viscosity – lush and silken. There is however plenty of bounce from a saline acidity that tightens the line and drive through the palate. It evolves as you taste, tossing in layers of savoury, umami richness and some toasted spice along the course. The dry finish brings things together in harmony and has great persistence. 96pts
Lethbridge ‘Allegra’ Chardonnay 2011
