A relatively rare single varietal to find these days – it used to be very common in California (I actually have a lovely piece of art – a label from a 1950’s ‘Rayo’ brand USA grape box that would have contained Alicante Bouschet grapes) and also across southern France. You’re more likely to come across it now in wines from the Alentejo region of Portugal, or from Spain, where it is known as ‘garnacha tintorera’ – Grenache being one of its parents. It has red flesh and produces a very, very dark colour in wines, but it is quite hard to find on its own – being prized as a blending grape for its colour and weight.
Lucky for us, Laithwaites have sourced this one from Quinta de Porto Franco – north of Lisbon in Portugal. Jet black in the glass, just a shimmer of burgundy at the edges. An elegant nose of damson plum, black cherry, blackcurrant and bramble, it does head towards a sweetness, with some cola, mocha and date notes in the perfume. Bold, big and glossy immediately on the palate, this is not shy. A few Portuguese reds I’ve tried do seem sweet to our NZ tastebuds – there’s a ripeness here that you see in Barossa Shiraz, but seldom from our homegrown reds. Think of a spiced coulis of succulent dark berries… but actually the alcohol is at 12.5% and it doesn’t stray into cloying – rather it is velvetty and smooth. The structure sits nicely through the spine – there is supple tannin, fresh acidity and a touch of toasty oak too. I think it would be a delicious summer BBQ wine with a thick steak, and I applaud the winemaker for creating this in its own character and style. This will certainly have its fans. 92pts
