Labelled as ‘Ancentral Method’ – I’d call it a Pet-Nat – is made from hand-picked Abel-clone Pinot Noir, grown at Churton vineyards in Marlborough. The wines fermented with wild yeast, and no additions, fining or filtering. A smooth spritz of bubbles and an elegant nose of sourdough and toasted brioche that’s also brimming with ripe fruit aromas – apricot, strawberry, orange peel and sweet lemons. There is a sheen of natural wine about this, but the skins-y note just sheathes the palate, adding complexity to what is a seriously well-made wine. A creaminess in the texture goes well with the flinty acidity, giving a real energy through to the finish. 93pts
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