A return to a wine I’ve had throughout my career writing about wines – from my time in Europe, and the occasional glass here in New Zealand. The oldest I’ve tasted is 1967, and the most recent a 2015 vintage – it is always a delight. Today’s edition falls somewhere in between those two vintages. It really is a benchmark Bordeaux – a second growth, and from Pauillac, arguably ‘the best’ of the left bank appellations (containing as it does, Lafite, Latour and Mouton Rothschild). But also, a very Cabernet Sauvignon-led expression – Pauillac being the very home of this varietal. If you want to really know Cabernet Sauvignon, then you need to know this wine.
A deep garnet-claret, with just a slight browning to the rim, showing the thirty years age. Perky and bright aromas of blackcurrant, plum, cherry, mint, graphite, leather, lavender and cedar. The intensity of the palate has now settled into serenity and elegance. Still quite firm and muscular, but now with svelte, muted tannins and enough of that wash of acidity to give direction to the ripe, herbal flavours. Liquorice and nori notes add interest, and even a little chocolate on the long, persistent finish. 96pts
