A first look at the new Gamay Noir from Te Kano also gives the opportunity to take a quick taste through some other current releases with Joe Chen from Te Kano. Head chef at Vic Road Kitchen, Ian, is here to taste with me as he’s going to be contributing a mid-winter recipe to match with this new wine for the Te Kano website.
I start with a look at a couple of wines from Te Kano’s second label ‘Kin’. The Kin Chardonnay 2021 comes from a small block of Mendoza clone Chardonnay on their Northburn Vineyard. For a second tier wine, this still gets all the treatment – hand-picked and with about 20% in American oak – the rest in French oak. The nose has a burst of white peach, lemon peel, caramel, grapefruit and spring flowers. The palate is generous – that spicy oak setting the tone and framing the ripe fruit. The plush texture at the core is contrasted by a quartzy acidity, leading to a dry, tight finish. For the price, this is excellent. 92pts
Kin Pinot Noir 2020 is a blend of Bannockburn and Northburn fruit. I think we’re accustomed to lighter colour Pinots in our glass now, aren’t we? It doesn’t mean less in terms of flavour – and certainly not a lighter perfume. This has a rose petal floral that is so attractive, mixed with juicy redcurrant and blueberry fruits and a touch of dried herb. Dry, clean and tight, with real brio and energy on the palate. A tartness of fruit, and a root beer, cherry stone note sits well with some grippy tannin to make a really characterful expression. Again, well-crafted for this range. 92pts
Te Kano Gamay 2022 is the wine we’re here to taste. 10% as carbonic maceration and the balance a whole-bunch, with no new oak, on the nose it is a super-bright fruit-driven style that makes you think of a smashable chilled red in summer. Fresh, with a delicate balance between jube-like fruits and bubblegum notes, and more serious dark cherry, rosehip and lavender flavours. The palate then turns quite vinous and savoury with thyme and cola notes. Intriguing – a real journey from nose to finish. 93pts
The second vintage of Te Kano Cabernet Franc 2022 also comes from their Northburn Vineyard. Now, I wasn’t a huge fan of the first edition, so I’m pleased to taste this new vintage. A vibrant purple colour, with bramble, kirsch, red capsicum, liquorice and nettle on the nose. It tastes like Loire Valley versions of Cab Franc – dry, tight, serious and with a bit of heat. Those green notes settle down and the palate has the purple fruit notes from the nose bleeding into it. The wine builds nicely, heading to a sweeter finish. 90pts
We finish on a sweeter note – Te Kano Riesling 2022 is a young wine with around 40 grams/litre of residual sugar. A shy nose – it is scarcely noticeable as this varietal, with an orange peel and floral character. Starting with a tickle of spritz on the tongue, then a whack of golden fruit – orange, apricot and quince. I get some confectionery notes of icing sugar and lemonade, but this quickly evolves as the saline acidity sweeps across the palate. A nibble of phenolic emerges and the more ‘traditional riesling’ personality comes in towards the back of the palate – green apple, oyster shell and zesty lime. Interesting when wine can do that transition from one thing into another. One to watch out for, and maybe cellar it for a few years? 90pts
