The new vintage of this wine from Kumeu – the ‘Estate’ is a benchmark NZ Chardonnay. Pale lemon-green in the glass, with a bright and effusive perfume. Just a tickle of reductivity on the nose – a flinty minerality that adds complexity and interest. Varietally-pure aromas that reflect lemon peel, hazelnut, white peach, oatmeal, grapefruit and a lift of spring flowers. The palate is tight, fresh and needs a really good swirl of air to start to unfurl – more than ever, this might be an ‘Estate’ to put away for a few years to fully enjoy. The balance between a saline acidity, ripe citrus fruits, a sliver of toasty oak, savoury notes of green olive and tarragon, and a briney minerality is exquisitely handled. The texture is also important in this expression – with plenty of lees-influenced creaminess. The finish is dry, lengthy and pure. 94pts
Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2022
