The Gambero Rosso ’Tre Bicchieri’ World Tour rode into Auckland again this year. The 2023 event sees the President of the Prosecco Consortium – Stefano Zanette, and Tanja Barattin – PR for Prosecco DOC, in attendance.
As such, there was a Masterclass on Prosecco wines, and a special dinner at Non Solo Pizza in Parnell, with a seafood-based menu designed to pair with and showcase Prosecco. With a succession of dishes such as Scampi Linguine and Octopus Carpaccio arriving on the table, you realise just what a versatile glass of wine Prosecco can be for a meal. I’d often thought of it as an aperitif, or a drink for a light lunch, but it was delicious – handling a little spice, a little citrus, very well.
Gambero Rosso are represented by Group CEO Luigi Salerno, International Director Tina Eriksson and International Editor Lorenzo Ruggeri. They arrived in Auckland after two days of exploration in the Marlborough wine region. The representatives were impressed by “the bold, distinctive Sauvignon Blancs of Marlborough” (with Clos Henri being singled out for particular praise). They had also visited one of our local legends in sparkling wine production – Daniel le Brun at No.1 Family Estate.
One of the topics being discussed in the Prosecco Masterclass was the bi-lateral agreement with New Zealand and the European Union has reached and which recognises the Prosecco DOC trademark.The agreement was reached just months after China agreed to officially recognise the Italian sparkling wine’s trademark.
“This decision can be considered as the result of a protection strategy that has always aimed at reinforcing the denomination’s perception not only in the consumers’ minds but also at a legal level,” explained Stefano Zanette.
“This protection is particularly significant, given the fact that a country so distant from us recognizes that we are a Denomination of Origin and it inhibits, after five years since the implementation of this agreement, the Australian Prosecco trading, which sees New Zealand as its number one destination in terms of export.” said Zanette.
During the Tasting part of the Masterclass, the Prosecco wines were shown with the new Rosé first, then in order of sweetness increasing from the Brut to the Extra Dry styles – from 11g/l to 15g/l of residual sugar. The Rosé Prosecco has only been permitted with the DOC since 2020, and is only made in the Brut style – the two wines I tried were at 6 and 9g/l residual.
I wrote an article in January about the success of Prosecco – https://winefolio.co.nz/?p=7489. Interesting to hear the scale of production of Prosecco. I know it is a very popular and worldwide drink – almost a phenomenon really – but to understand that the number of bottles puts its scope at twice the production of Champagne is an eye-opener. The Rosé went from 18 million bottles in 2020 to now at 70 million bottles annually!
The first two wines are Rosé – the Le Rughe Prosecco DOC Rosé Millesimato 2021 Brut is the driest I taste today but has a lovely raspberry cream and rose petal perfume. The acidity meets the fruit sweetness in a roundness on the palate. Plenty of sour cherry, redcurrant notes, with great density in the palate. De Stefani Prosecco DOC Rosé Millesimato 2022 Brut “0.15” is introduced by Alessandro De Stefani on the day. This is a serious expression. Drier on the nose, with guava, green apple and cranberry, plus something like sourdough crumb. A tightness in the palate but no sense of tannin – this is clean, fresh and energetic. And very, very good.
Into the traditional style of Prosecco then… I tend to think of it as a joyful, uncomplicated drink – it isn’t something to tie yourself in knots over, and the affordable price point tends to make it something that everyone can indulge in – around a third of the price of Champagne. La Gioiosa Prosecco DOC Organic Brut is a label that is well-known, and a wine I’ve tried before. 11g/l of residual sugar, but you wouldn’t know it. Very dry at first sip, with lime, green melon, pear and jasmine floral aromatics. Crisp, with a saline acidity and a juicy sweet/sour balance.
The Villa Sandi Prosecco DOC Organic Brut “Il Fresco” is stated at 12g/l but tastes much sweeter than the third wine. There’s an icing sugar, lamington note on the nose. Fresh green grapes and herbal notes, and even a slightly bitter nettle flavour make the palate quite tart at first, but the mousse of bubbles and that initial confectionary note make this an intriguing one. Bright, focused and characterful. Very good.
Alessandro is on his feet again to introduce the De Stefani Prosecco DOC Millesimato 2022 Extra Dry “0.15” which is much more golden in colour, and has a perfume that heads in that direction too. Apricot, apple pie crust and marmalade on the nose. Super intensity of fruit and juiciness. The finish is soft, sweet and richly exotic. The final wine completes the circle with Le Rughe Prosecco DOC Extra Dry. A swoop of sweeter fruit greets you, perfumed with pineapple, melon and golden notes of nectarine, sweet lemonade and acacia. There’s a candied fruit note and vanilla to the palate. This is the sweetest, with 15 g/l of residual sugar – would go well with spicy foods – chill crab or harissa-grilled chicken.
