A wine from Martinborough, notoriously difficult to track down. From a cooler vintage that had a very slow start, but is now reckoned to be a pretty good year. The colour is starting to show the age in the bottle, with the deep ruby-burgundy core having a slightly bronzed edge to it. The nose is still very primal, with a bloody, peaty edge above the rosehip, orange curd, cherry and red plum fruit notes. The palate is a delicate tightrope of tannin – dry and fine-boned, and a thread of acidity – tart and quartzy. The balance of fruit to savoury is key here – a juicy burst of redcurrant and cranberry sits above a layer laden with sumac, sage and star anise spiciness. The savoury comes underneath, darkening the fruit and palate with a tang of iron-earth and a loamy forest-floor musk. Everything here is in line, with an elegant progression of elements that leaves plenty of tension and atmosphere. Each component lingers and resonates with the next. An impressive, very ‘Martinborough’ expression. 96pts
Kusuda Pinot Noir 2010
