One of only a few Gamay Noirs made in New Zealand – the fruit comes from the Two Terraces Vineyards in Maraekakaho, Hawke’s Bay. It is whole bunch fermented, foot stomped and aged in a combination of old oak puncheons and one of those cool stone eggs. On the nose it is floral and brimming with fruit – a mixture of cherry, mandarin and damson, with a lovely spicy undertone. On the palate there’s a distinct bite of tannin (if you had to guess blind, I might think nebbiolo) and a savoury element enhanced by that whole bunch – drying, astringently bitter – in a good way – and earthy. Intense, with an umami, black tea and nori edge. The texture is smooth, velvet-like and paves the way for a harmonic, concentrated finish of some length. 93pts