Two new Chardonnays from Bilancia. Both part of a project to highlight the talents of small, unique vineyards they have discovered in Hawke’s Bay – having previously taken fruit for their other Chardonnay projects. Now made as single vineyard wines in their own right.
Trelinnoe Vineyard Chardonnay 2020
From a vineyard on Roys Hill – named for the owner’s historical ties to Cornwall (and a place I’ve visited back home – a beautiful historical garden). Aromatic and spicy, showing juicy lemon, ginger, nectarine, cashew, greengage and orange blossom floral notes – some good smoky oak coming through on the nose, as well as into the palate. A classic cool climate Chardonnay, with brightness across a focussed, taut palate. Lime curd and ripe peach are balanced with nuances of preserved lemon and green olive plus a briny minerality. A plush and rounded texture leads into a long finish with excellent balance. 94pts
Kaikora Chardonnay 2021
A single vineyard Chardonnay from Kaikora Vineyard in Ōtāne in Central Hawke’s Bay. (Kaikora is the original name for the town). A pale gold in the glass. Youthful and fresh on the nose, with nashi pear, fennel, lemon zest, apple, tarragon, hay and green herbal aromatics. Tight and toned into the palate. A tart line of acidity, light touch of oak influence and minerality in spades; but edgy and a tad disjointed for now. Fruit is delicious and adds to the intensity – white peach, grapefruit, quince and apricot. The finish is dry and long but also a bit unresolved, for now.
Polarising at the tasting, but to my mind this cool climate linear style Chardonnay has potential +. Would be keen to see this with a couple of years in the bottle. For now: 92pts
