Tincan ‘Cult Crimson’ 2018

Rather confidently labelled as  ‘How wine should be’ – this is Pinot Noir from an organic vineyard in Nelson, made with no additions – zero sulphur, fining or filtration, and hand bottled.

With (an intentional) cloudiness in the glass – like purple dishwater; but with an intriguing nose of cherry, redcurrant, cola and rosehip. The aromatics here are quite nice – robust but with a floral lift. Has an immediate ‘pop’ of bright juicy flavour on the palate, with just that light fog of ‘natural’ wine character oxidativeness hiding it. It’s like this has to be there for you to know that “it’s natural” before you can pass through to the actual wine underneath. Tannins are supple – with a tea-like darkness and the acidity is fresh, pushing the flavours through. Boysenberry, sumac and dark chocolate notes sit in between a range of rather delicious savoury elements that bring an earthy, resinous undertow – I get some carbonic and whole-bunch winemaking influences.

The second go at this was quite pleasant. I have to say the first was not… at first glance, it’s an almost anti-wine – feral and wild, more akin to kombucha or fruit juice. When I went back to the bottle later, the cork pulled out with an alarming pop/fizz. 

But I think this discomfort is part of it. It’s not some sterile, safe, boring, lifeless product. It hums with the life of the vines, and has a depth of character that many wines do not. If you’ve ever tried  a relatively young wine direct from the winemaker’s barrels – that is what this is like – cloudy, unfiltered and raw. Quite exciting to actually see that transferred to a bottle.