A Sauternes – Premier Grand Cru Classé – to match with a Tarte Tatin at the weekend. A light golden butter colour in the glass, with aromatics that are both rich and delicate. Honey, orange peel, acacia, ginger, almond, fig and caramel. Vibrantly elegant but still tight and crisp after 32 years in the bottle. Great acid balance to the plush richness. Tropical fruits – lychee and rockmelon meet old school marmalade, dried pear slices and apricot on the palate. Sweet, but with a lovely tart, tarry bitterness at the back of the throat. A rounded, silken texture and an ethereal, lasting finish. Worthy of the reputation. 95pts