Louis Sipp Grand Cru Pinot Gris ‘Kirchberg De Ribeauville’ 2004

From a Grand Cru vineyard overlooking Ribeauville in Alsace, opened at 18 years of age. An light amber-gold in the glass, with a decadent set of aromas that take in a slatey minerality, ripe apricot and peach, some oxidative sherry-like notes, almond meal and finally a pineapple and guava tropical fruitiness. Dry, but with a fruit tannin and ripeness, and a hint of botrytis at the edges – overall the effect is of off-dry, despite a stony freshness and salinity. Acidity is muted, and there’s a plushness through the palate, but no lack of weight and body. Complex, characterful and rich. 92pts

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