The Block 17 ‘Plateau’ has most of its fruit sourced from a single vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, and is typically a blend of two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, and a third Merlot. Given the opportunity to look at three vintages of this Bordeaux-style red blend, shows the potential for development given some cellaring of what is one of New Zealand’s classic regional wine styles.
Starting with the newest wine – the 2020 vintage, and current release.
Youthful, lightness of colour – showing a translucent ruby in the glass. An excellent, aromatic nose with blackberry, cedar, Ribena, bayleaf, plum and lifted florals. No disguising the oak – toasty and framing the palate. Ripe dark fruit is balanced with a savoury umami note that includes graphite-pencil shavings, tobacco and soy, but also some cocoa and espresso flavours. Tannins are chewy and the acidity is bright, giving nice drive, and nothing seems out of place – just a little time will benefit the balance. 91pts
Moving on to the couple of older vintages – firstly the 2018
Dark crimson colour, showing a touch of magenta flashes at the rim. A bold nose, perfumed with blackcurrant, blood orange, cigar box, pepper, plum and vanilla. The Cabernet gives a great structure, cocooning the softer, plush Merlot through a palate that is power-packed and muscular. There’s a nice tart, nettle ‘green’ note that sets off the lush dark fruits nicely, sitting above the earthy star anise spice, adding a layer of interest and personality. Oak, again, is unmistakable but sits a little quieter in the layers now – two years longer in bottle. 92pts
Finally, the perfectly-aged 2015 vintage
A deep ruby colour, now with some darkening to mulberry at the edges. Herbal notes merge with the bloody, dark berry fruits. Damson, red cherry, mint, green peppercorn, marzipan and cassis. Dry, with lovely, soft, tannins showing a distinctive black tea nuance. Firmly concentrated. Savoury and balanced with a roundness and density to both the fruit and the seasoning of peaty oak. Liquorice, cloves, and a Campari-like ‘good bitterness’ to the lengthy finish. 93pts
