From the gorgeous hillside vineyard of Lorraine Leheny and Warren Gibson, on Roy’s Hill, Hawke’s Bay. A bright ruby-maroon colour in the glass, just starting to show a little darkening to brick red at the edges, with two decades bottle development. The lighter colour disguises a wine of intensity and subtle power. The nose is perfumed with redcurrant, yellow plum, rosehip, acacia and blueberry and has a distinctive floral lift of violet and buddleia. Tannins and acidity are restrained, poised, balanced. It’s a straightforward kind of wine, with a delicate beauty, but also a confidence and fluidity – escaping any need for tighter structure or extraction. The balance also shows deeper into the palate – with savoury notes playing opposite sweeter ones. Black olives, pepper, crab apple jelly, mocha. Sensual and harmonic, with a mesmerising effect as the finish swoops through – dry, long and pure. 97pts.
Bilancia La Collina Syrah 2002
