From the exceptional Two Terraces vineyard in Mangatahi, Hawke’s Bay, comes a hard-to-find Chenin Blanc. Described as ‘artisanal wine’ on their website, I’d definitely say this leans in the ‘natural’ wine direction. Like some very good natural wines, once you are past the oxidised, skins-heavy ‘character’ that tends to identify them, they are often just very good wines underneath that veneer – frequently expressing the varietal typicity of the fruit in a clearer way than conventional winemaking does.
Pale gold in the glass, with a saline edge to the nose of apricot, almond, nashi pear, mandarin and lemon blossom. A minerally, apple skin fruit tannin gives a bit of grip to the front of the palate, before a pure fruit flavour smoothes out any angles. Carried on a crisp acidity, into ripe tropical notes of mango, quince, melon. Texturally smooth, with a waxy edge and interest that frames the fruit beautifully. 91pts.
