From the Wairarapa, with a brilliant deep ruby colour in the glass. Aromatic, with a blossoming nose filled with cherry, plum and cranberry, then vanilla, charred chestnut, rosehip and lilac blossom. Taut, with a juicy acidity that leads to the core of the wine, and the main event. For this is as much about celebrating the tight, supple tannin as it is the ripe fruit. Oak is a smartly judged addition, as a background element, with the spotlight on that brave, edgy tannic character. Complex, ethereal, and yet with stunning depth. A lovely savouriness develops as the glass opens up, where the fruit becomes a layer over which a root beer, tapenade and a peaty forest floor notes seep into and blend. Great, lengthy finish too. 95pts.