A welcome invitation, to an unconventional place. I had to smile when one co-attendee asked – ‘do you buy much Trinity Hill?’ It’s along the lines of another question you’ll commonly get asked if someone realises part of your life involves writing about New Zealand wines (that is.. “what’s your favourite wine?”). I do, and I love their wines – classic Gimblett Gravels wines. Indeed, winner of the WineFolio ‘Top 10 Tasting’ of Chardonnay this year.
Happy to come into town and have a look at the new wines, and even to a place that after you’d googled it; done the street view in every direction; and it still came up as an anonymous-looking ex-gas station. I stop outside and admire a stunning ’21 edition Land Rover, commenting to the doorman as I go in. But then as I make my way to the interior had an “oh, right” moment as line after line of Ferrari, Porsche, more Ferrari cars appear, in gleaming lines of art-on-wheels. I’m not one to “selfie”… hey, I did.
In the midst, are the lovely wines from Trinity Hill, and in a secluded bar area upstairs, the chance to quietly go through some of these with Warren Gibson, the winemaker. The “top wine” of Trinity Hill is of course the ‘Homage’ Syrah, but pushing close in the last year or so have been a set of single vineyard wines. These, dare I say, allow a little more expression. For example, there is a Syrah, and it offers an intriguing contrast to the ‘Homage’. This is ‘L’Eritage’ and the 2018 (current) vintage was reviewed here > www.winefolio.co.nz/?p=692 a while ago. Also on offer in this tier is a sensational Chardonnay – the ‘125 Gimblett Chardonnay’ – both vintages have been reviewed previously – the 2019 here > www.winefolio.co.nz/?p=3335 and a Cabernet Sauvignon named ‘Prison Block’.
Is ‘Homage’ one of New Zealand’s great wines? This was an opportunity to test that hypothesis – with three vintages open to taste. The current 2018 vintage is under screwcap, but there was also the chance to try the 2010 and 2014 and versions alongside – those two sealed with cork, but decanted and ready for review. Winemaking has changed over the years, with the percentage of new oak and the additions of whole berries a notable variable, and one that can be tasted between bottles.
One of our great Syrahs – of that there is no doubt. I’d argue that Warren already makes a better Syrah than Homage – with ‘La Collina’ under the Bilancia label with Lorraine Leheny. Less muscular and with a level of floral intrigue that is unparalled in this country.
But for those who revel in that ‘grunt’ that Gimblett Gravels fruit provides, it’s on show here in ‘Homage’ and in the first 2018 ‘L’Eritage’. Just that already in the new vintage, the single vineyard wine is showing more of that elusive perfumed ‘radiance’ that is, to me, the elevated form of Syrah. The power and the elegance, the ying and yang.
Here’s a quick run down of the wines I’ve not reviewed before…
125 Gimblett Rd Chardonnay 2020 A vibrant nose – aromas of lemon rind, grapefruit, peach, roast cashew and orange blossom. The oak is obvious – not unlikeable – rich and caramelly, toasted; but perhaps still needing time to integrate at this stage. Tight, youthful, with swagger and a jazzy dancing, vitality to the palate. Incredible length coming from a line of citrusy acidity. An enveloping texture wraps up the finish – long, succulent and more-ish. Star potential here.
Prison Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Dry, with spices and a herbal undertow. Stony minerality – even on nose. Really tight, with graphite minerality laid over rich, ripe fruit. Sweet-fruited, unctuous with cassis, plum, blood orange. Big tannins, taut and chewy. Robust – muscular. Earthiness returns on the end. Drying finish with good length.
Homage 2014 Nose is alluring, perfumed and floral – lilac, lavender and a hint of autumn leaves. Really opening up, much broader and you can feel the fruit leeching through the palate. Bright, succulent, red fruited – Redcurrant, rosehip, plum. Spiced with pepper and cloves, cinnamon, sumac. Slightly herbal and distinctly stony minerality. Still completely primary – no secondary flavours showing yet. Generous, with wonderful depth and a mile-long finish.
Homage 2010 Superb colour in the glass – deep purple and ruby. Nose is particularly floral, but also right through the palate. Vibrant and packed with the ripest fruit, richest berries – some deeper, richer like liquorice and truffle. Powerful, complex and opulent. Just moving into secondary, bottle-age character. Tannins are now fully integrated – silken, fine and seamless. Incredible depth – deep, long, smooth. It’s like a balm, medicinal. A ten year + version of this wine… just shows where the reputation comes from – quite remarkable.
