Beyond the Vines – The changing landscape of wine in Aotearoa New Zealand is a new book by Jules van Costello, and it proved to be an fascinating read. It helps that it’s about my favourite topic – New Zealand wine, but I raced through this edition in the space of just over a day – ducking in and out at every tea break. It’s part opinion piece (Jules isn’t afraid of guiding you through his thoughts) and part New Zealand wine guide (the regions, grape varietals and styles are all covered), but overall does a splendid job of telling the story of New Zealand’s place in the modern, worldwide, wine industry.
Where it comes up strongly is the excellent research into its subject. The author presents sections covering bespoke ‘types’ – for example, under ‘Cult Icons’ we have Bell Hill, Destiny Bay, Devotus, Poppies, Pyramid Valley and Rippon. Now, as a person who is immersed in New Zealand wine… I’d expected I might skim through these – but couldn’t. In every page there is something new to discover – the writing never staid or formulaic – and uncovering new gems of info, or quotes that kept me enthralled.
Obviously, as the author has “been working in the wine world in Aotearoa for almost 18 years in almost every role: sommelier, wine merchant, sales rep, waiter, writer, and now even winemaker”, for me it’s almost like having an interesting, if extended, chat. He talks about what I want to talk about (its actually quite instructive), and is not afraid to delve into corners to pick at some of the issues facing New Zealand’s wine business.
Where a reader may struggle, is the personal nature of the writing in the book. You probably aren’t going to agree with everything that’s written here. I, however, liked that, but it can be noted that the author presents their view and their preference, framed through their lens on the subject. Of course. How else to do something justice and make for a new and relevant perspective on the current scene? This isn’t the NZ Wine Atlas. A major factor in the book is the spotlight on what the author calls ‘postmodern wine’. I’d say Jules likes natural wine, artisans (and artisans making natural wines), and Craggy Range. Which is great, and it makes for a passionate read when getting into subjects that are often fairly leftfield of ‘traditional wines’.
It was with some trepidation that I got towards the last few pages and entered a chapter titled ‘The Darker side of New Zealand wine’ written with a warning that it may offend… in fact what I read wasn’t so uncomfortable for anyone who is honest enough to face some hard truths. Covering sexism, racism and cultural approbation – again, it’s the author’s honesty and ability to tell a story utilising their own context and opinion, but without prejudice, that makes these pages so engaging.
I’ve not met Jules, but if this project is a fair reflection of the author, he is both interesting and interested – a pretty good combination. BTV is written in a way that captures that interest and was, in equal parts, as entertaining as it was compelling.
Beyond the Vines is published by Wild Bunch Press and is distributed by Publishers Distribution Ltd. It is available at all good bookstores from 23 November and can be ordered online at beyondthevines.co.nz. Get one for the wine lover in your life for Christmas.
