In the late 1990s, winemakers Claire Mulholland and Grant Taylor made wine together at Gibbston Valley Wines in Central Otago. Claire moved on to replace Larry McKenna as the winemaker at Martinborough Vineyards, and Grant turned to focus on Valli’s sub-regional expressions of Central Pinot Noir. But when Claire returned to the region to head up the new Burn Cottage label, an idea formed to have a swap of a small amount of grapes and each make wine from the other’s fruit. So, in the 2014 vintage Grant has made a Valli ‘Burn Cottage Vineyard’ using Lowburn fruit, and the Burn Cottage team made a ‘Valli Vineyard’ using Gibbston fruit. This is one of those – from Abel, 115 and 667 clones – sealed under cork.
A dark and vibrant purple-ruby colour in the glass. The perfume is full, decadent and spicy. Not overtly Pinot-esque at first. Blackberry, cherry, strawberry and red plum fruits, with heaps of toasted spice and darker, savoury elements of nori, cedar and roasted beets. Mouth-filling and textural immediately – the palate medium weighted and succulent. Some thyme and lavender floral notes persist into the palate, and the lightly peppery spice element continues. A filigree of tannin forms a supple spine alongside the acidity and subtle oak seasoning. I don’t know if I’m well-judged to say whether this is a boss-level showcase of specific terroir; but it develops beautifully in the glass – to become a very fine example of Central Otago Pinot. The finish is well-rounded, harmonious and persistent. 95pts
