The fact that the fruit is sourced from three sites in the famed Gimblett Gravels – 70% Gimblett Estate / 19% Tin Shed / 11% Gimblett Stones gives a hint at the thought and care that goes into producing this icon wine. 2018 was a very warm early season in Hawke’s Bay and then a very warm, humid, late summer and autumn. Special canopy management of the vines, along with the impeccable season, ensured fruit quality was of the highest order.
Under screwcap the first thing that hits you is the colour which is bright glossy yet has a deep opaque purple hue and reflects that this hand-harvested and de-stemmed fruit was either hand plunged or pumped over each day during fermentation to aid optimal colour and tannin extraction. The exception was a single parcel that fermented with 100% whole bunches and Viognier skins to enhance aromatics and structure.
While it is mostly Mass Selection clone (55%), the other clones (18% Baileys, 16% Clone 174, 6% Clone 470) add to the complexity of the wine. All parcels were predominantly aged in 228-litre French oak barriques for 12 to 15 months, of which 32% were new. One parcel was aged for eight months in a 5,400-litre French oak oval followed by a further six months in barriques. While in barrel none of the wines were racked, only stirred when required.
Aromas of lightly spiced plum with savoury bacon fat notes. Fine supple tannins. The wine sits lightly on the palate and is pure, clean and elegant with a slightly creamy texture reflective of the total time on skins (including post-fermentation maceration) which ranged from 16 to 35 days which is designed to improve the texture of the tannins while softening and stabilising the wine. The fruit is certainly concentrated yet it is subtle in its expression rather than being big, bold or overt. As a result despite being a relatively young wine it is completely integrated with the fruit and oak being perfectly melded together which is super impressive given the expected life span of this wine. Round acidity. Will be interesting to see how this develops with time. Like all dimensions of this wine the length is subtle, yet deceptively long. 95pts
We hope that readers find Steven’s review interesting to compare with David’s (equally lengthy) review of the wine on release > https://winefolio.co.nz/?p=2211, and also what he had to say during a recent vertical tasting here > https://winefolio.co.nz/?p=12870.
