Trinity Hill’s iconic wine ‘Homage’ would be in the running if there was a vote for the Top 10 of New Zealand’s great wines. A Syrah with an interesting back story… winemaker John Hancock did a vintage with Jaboulet at Hermitage (that’s in France, the home of Syrah) in 1996. A friendship grew, and Gerard Jaboulet sent him back to New Zealand with some prized cuttings of Syrah – the plantings from which ‘Homage’ was then born. First bottled in 2002, the wine has evolved to be a ‘single property’ wine, not a ‘single vineyard’ one. From around 2013 using some of the fruit from the Hillside vineyard in the finished blend.
Methods have also changed over time. It used to be quite oak-heavy – using small format, new barrels, but has now moved towards larger-format barrels. Plenty of extraction, the wines being worked hard, with bold colour and tannin was the norm. It revelled in that ‘grunt’ that Gimblett Gravels fruit provides.
Another feature was usually a portion of Viognier – and no whole bunches. All of which has changed. How it is presented has even been a moveable feast – with heavy bottles a feature up to 2010; but also the labelling, from the ‘disco-ball’ offering of 2018, to the present day simplified elegance. Screwcaps came in – the cork was dropped in 2018, after a decade of trials.
Current winemaker, Warren Gibson is on hand to talk us through the vintages from 2016 to 2021. He started to have more control from around 2010. Simon Fell joined the crew after these wines were made, but has helped to lift the label’s game – with, I think, a perceptible improvement across the board. The ‘white label’ Hawke’s Bay range in particular has won several awards and had critics raving about the quality. He’s here to offer a view on the wines, tasting alongside myself, Emma Jenkins MW and Mary-Therese Blair.
Homage 2016 The bouquet is bold and has great varietal typicity, filled with spiced plum, terracotta, pepper, violet florals and lots of vanilla oak. Something about a negroni comes to mind, with a bright acidity underpinned by a subtle leafy bitters. Still very primary with no secondary flavours showing yet. Generous and polished, with wonderful energy and a sweetening, lengthy finish.
Homage 2017 More raspberry, bramble and redcurrant to the perfume here – the fruit is quite racy. Again, a lovely floral edge to the nose, with lavender, lilac and violets hints at whole bunch winemaking. Very spicy, with peppers, cloves, sumac and star anise. Turns richer and deeper into the palate, with an obvious frame of new oak. The tannins in this are heroic – chalky and abundant, but fine and not at all blocky like you see in some Gimblett wines.
Homage 2018 A bright ruby colour, with a definite ‘cooler’ edge to the bouquet. Restrained and with a Pinot Noir-like approach, on the nose for sure. A very settled and calm entry to the palate, showing precision but no lack of generosity. Oak is less obvious here. Terrific line of acidity takes over, adding directness, but the tannin persists – chalky and dry. A well-balanced wine with a good length to the finish.
Homage 2019 Deep burgundy coloured in the glass, and a more savoury aroma than I’ve seen so far. This has umami (soy, nori, tapenade), red fruits, white pepper and salami notes. It is very ‘Hawke’s Bay Syrah’ after the 2018 could be mistaken for Pinot (on the nose). Early-drinking approachability on show – with a polish and finesse with everything well integrated. Smooth texture slides you into a finish that has more resinous, mineral tartness and excellent persistence.
Homage 2020 from the COVID vintage, and it had to be machine-harvested – this is a very different beast. Again, it is drinking very well now, but perhaps lacks the elegance that has been on show to this point? Densely concentrated, with a line of oak that frames primary dark, plummy fruit. A touch of jubey cassis, and dried cherry too. Supple tannin and a great flow of acidity. It’s a lovely drink, but not sure it is a signature Homage, tasted alongside its siblings.
Homage 2021 The current release. It is youthful, of course, but doesn’t lack in concentration or body. The fruit has a nip to it, with plenty of peppery spice. Tight and grippy with lengthy tannin and super acidity providing the core in the palate. Damson plum, boysenberry and an earthy savouriness balance well – the palate turns richer as you go on a journey with every sip showing something more. Good potential here. – one to put away.
We’re also treated to a look at Homage 2010. Still a superb colour in the glass – deep purple and just a hint of copper at the edges. Nose is particularly floral, but also right through the palate. Vibrant and packed with the ripest fruit, richest berries – plus a little inexpensive of orange peel and campari-like bitters. Powerful, complex and opulent. Just moving into secondary, bottle-age character. Tannins are now fully integrated – silken, fine and seamless. Incredible depth – deep, long, smooth. It’s like a balm, medicinal. A fifteen year old version of this wine… just shows where the reputation comes from – quite remarkable.
