This is the second half of another box full of vinous treasure that arrived from the team at Laithwaites last week. I do love the wines of Alsace, and whilst there are a handful of excellent Gewürztraminers produced in New Zealand, it is good to take a look at the classics. Good on Laithwaites for offering this one – made from a winery that has been operating for around 300 years. That’s not something we can boast about locally!
Laithwaites have a great selection from far-flung corners of the wine-producing world. As well as Alsace, this box had a ‘New World’ style Chardonnay from Chile; as well as a classic ‘Old World’ Bordeaux. Their website is a cornucopia of delights. All you have to do is browse and pick a few. Or go for a selection box where the decisions are made for you. That’s not unlike what happens to me, and I’m always happy with what arrives. Christmas is on the horizon and it is about time to stock up. Happy hunting!
Edouard Leiber Gewürztraminer Reserve 2022
A white wine from the well-regarded ‘Edouard Leiber’ vineyard, and created by Maison Cattin – one of the oldest family wineries in Alsace. Gentle but plush on the nose, with signature rose petal and carnation florals, and mandarin, lychee and ripe pear. The palate has a little residual sugar, adding weight and increasing the sense of ripe lushness. A lovely peppery spiciness dances on the tongue – a contrast to that candy shop, turkish delight core. Match with any spicy food, or serve well-chilled as an aperitif. 90pts
Don Cayetano Chardonnay 2024
Made by Luis Felipe Edwards from across their vineyards in Chile. “Don Cayetano” is the name given to this special line of wines, in honour of the founder of the vineyard, Don Luis Felipe Cayetano Edwards. The nose shows peach, citrus and pear with vanilla, lemon curd and baking spices. Quite creamy and textural on first sip, with the crisp bite of acidity then kicking in, accenting the grapefruit and mandarin notes. A touch of oak shows, and the finish has a little sweetness to round things out. 89pts
Angullong ‘Fossil Hill’ Barbera 2023
Winner of the Trophy for ‘Best Red Variety or Blend’ at the Orange Wine Show in 2023. Barbera is an Italian variety that has been grown in Australia since the 1960s. An aromatic red as a lighter-weight alternative to Pinot Noir. A bright, vivid perfume filled with cherry, blueberry and raspberry fruit, mixed with baking spice and lilac florals. Plump and fuller in the palate, with a drag of tannin across the tongue, and that spice turning earthy and savoury. 91pts
UMPF ‘Dark Red’ Shiraz 2022
I’m coming round to the idea that Shiraz is Australia’s ‘signature grape’, and the some of the best come from South Australia. A deep black-tinged red colour, but the palate has a delightfully lighter weight and movement to it. The fruit is intense, dark and juicy, but not jammy or over-ripe. Crushed pepper and woody spices add seasoning. Oak, acidity and tannin are seamlessly woven in, keeping the fruit as the star of the show. 92pts
RedHeads 1888 Shiraz 2024
A Shiraz from the heartland of this style of the grape – the Barossa Valley. Boysenberry, plum, liquorice and red cherry flavours make a union with herbal notes of mint, verbena and capsicum. The palate is rich – spiced with pepper, clove and vanilla from the generous oak. The burr of tannin rubs across the tongue and that oak and a ripe acidity combine in a strident wave that carries to a polished but bold finale. 91pts
Château du Tetre Belair 2022
When looking for good-value Bordeaux, it pays to take a look in appellations that neighbour more prestigious (and expensive) ones. This wine comes from Castillon, in the Côtes de Bordeaux – on the Right Bank, next to Saint-Emilion. Merlot-high, blended with Cabernet Franc. Cherry, plum and blackcurrant, with a little liquorice. Quite full bodied, it is juicy and plush, but with plenty of tannin and acidity adding structure. Layers of dried herbs, balsam and violet florals add that savoury edge that Bordeaux wine is known for, and extra complexity. 93pts
The Black Pig Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
From the Black Pig range that has proved very popular with Laithwaites customers – this McLaren Vale red is full-bodied and bold in style. Cassis, dark cherry, blackberry, plum and Christmas cake aromas rise from the glass. Ample sinewy tannins with good grip sit next to some barrel spice influence, and there is some of those classic mint, chocolate and pepper flavours so typical of the region. Ripe, plump and approachable. 90pts
Calabria ‘Long Live the King’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
A combination of Langhorne Creek and Coonawarra fruit. A dense and dark purple-red in the glass. A swag of red berries, plum, cassis and black olive sit nicely with vanilla, sage and black pepper. The palate benefits from grippy tannin, a salty acidity and lashings of charry oak flavours. Well-structured but enjoyable now, with chocolate and spice rounding things out and adding light to the shade. An easy-going velvet texture glides across the back of the palate, before a fine finish. This punches above its weight. 92pts
