Chardonnay from the famously fastidious Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy – labelled Bourgogne but anywhere else this would be Grand Cru quality. The price reflects this. A pale straw-green colour in the glass. The perfume is immediate but has a lovely delicacy at first, with nougat, citrus, pear, peach, hazelnut and spring florals. It is surprisingly simple wine – elegance with an underlying power. Quite fine, even lacy, in the palate – the detail showing the finesse. It deepens towards tropical fruits and honey. Fresh acidity carries the ripe fruit and an oatmeal, creamy texture arrives at the back of the palate. The finish is eternal, chalky and dry. Not a wine you’ll taste every day, nor one you’re likely to forget if you do. 97pts
Maison Leroy Bourgogne Blanc 2018
