2025 began with the delivery of fifteen wines in a box landing at the door from www.laithwaites.co.nz. This time around it was mostly reds, but with a couple of interesting looking whites as well. As usual, there’s a diverse selection – with many varietals and styles that go beyond what would typically find its way into my glass if I stuck to my usual choices. I’ve split the contents into two articles for ease of reading (and tasting). Here we go…
Famille Bougrier Les Secrets d’Abesse 2023
For those of us in Australasia, it is good to remember that the Loire Valley in France makes what many purists would consider the classic ‘Old World’ expression of Sauvignon Blanc. What’s the difference? It is a calmer, quieter voice that doesn’t have the sweet tropical edge to the fruit, and has less of the bright green cut of those from the southern hemisphere. This is a zesty, herbal package with citrus fruit flavours and a dry, chalky, minerally texture that works best with food. Look at a plate of seafood or shellfish to make a glassful of this really sing. 90pts
Barrel Monkeys Shiraz 2021
From McLaren Vale in South Australia, named for the hard-working and unsung Cellar hands who help create our wines. Possibly Australia’s best regarded varietal now – certainly a style of Syrah that areas like McLaren Vale have ‘made their own’. Expect some ripe, almost jammy black fruit, a good lick of oak, and plush, supple tannins, and you won’t be disappointed in opening this bottle. Acidity is enough to keep things moving without overshadowing the juicy bramble, plum and boysenberry flavours that take centre stage. A fine example. 92pts
Dark Corner Durif Shiraz 2024
Made by winemaker David Joeky as a side project, with fruit from South Eastern Australia. If you’ve had Durif before, you’ll know that it adds a flamboyant ripeness and weighty to any blend it is in with. The inkily dark colour in the glass has dark flavours to match – cherry, blackberry, liquorice, pepper and cacao nib in the palate. Oak, tannin and acidity are all in alignment and supporting that plush fruit. There’s a distinctive mocha note at the finish, which is long and spicy. 90pts
Pillastro Primitivo 2022
An IGT level wine from Puglia, in the south of Italy. Made by a wine co-operative using the traditional Alberello Pugliese bush vine method of growing grapes. Bright fruit enhanced with wild herbs, leafy, baked earth and pink peppercorns. The predominant ripe cherry is underlined with toasty oak and wedded to supple tannin. Quite hearty and plump, it finishes with a swoop of juice and pepper. 90pts
Cabalié 2023 is a Pays d’Oc level Roussillon wine, a juicy southern blend of Grenache and Carignan. The scent shows raspberry, elderberry and blackcurrant – ripe and sweet, highlighted with a red hibscus exotic floral note. A mixture of that fruit and some savoury layers of pepper, star anise and sumac results in a well-integrated palate of mid-weight charm and breadth. Finishes smooth and sweeter. 88pts
Bent Wing Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2023
Another Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in the renowned ‘terra rossa’ soils of the region (a rich, red clay over limestone). The perfume is vibrant and spicy, with lashings of dark fruit, plus green capsicum vanilla and pepper on the nose. In the palate, bold tannin is balanced by a minty freshness of acidity. Bold, juicy and with a long peppery finish. 92pts
Stones and Bones 2022 is a blend of red varietals Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Tinta Roriz and Alicante Bouschet from Portugal. The scent has a sweet, rustic edge – like stepping into a hedgerow. Blackberry, herbs, rosehip, cherry, raspberry jam and a bit of liquorice. Being portguese you can anticipate a sweet ripeness in the core, and here that is offset by well-balanced acidity and some smooth tannin. Quite big (it’s 14% alcohol) and unctuous. 89pts
