A Chardonnay from Martinborough – grown on the Ma Maison vineyard. A collaboration between Larry McKenna and Helen Masters (whose own property is next door). A pale green in the glass, with a hint of a golden glow to the edges. A scent of understated elegance kicks things off, with lemon, grapefruit, crisp apple, white peach, ginger, chamomile and a chalky, sea-salt note. The calm, assured and taut entry to the palate reflects the nose, but look for rapid evolution in the glass once this sees some air. Tightly structured with linear acidity that drives the wine. Richness grows with each sip, as does a sense of spice and savoury notes of fennel, tarragon and lime leaf come through. A dry, pithy finish of great persistence. 96pts
