A wine from Marlborough – each year a small quantity of the No.1 Family Estate ‘Cuvée No.1’ is put to cellar for an extra ageing process. This is then released several years later under a special bottling as ‘Reserve’. It has been out of stock for a while, but a new release – limited to 1680 individually numbered and hand-labelled bottles – is out now. A blend of 91% Chardonnay and 9% Pinot Noir, in an Extra Brut style – it has been on lees now for 6.5 years.
A pale straw gold colour with a fine mousse of tiny bubbles carries a bold scent in a wave from the glass. Complex and fine, but with an electric energy. Lemon peel, grapefruit, peach, apricot, mandarin and cherry blossom, with an overlay of bran biscuit and toasted brioche. The palate starts with a richness carried from that voluminous nose, but is quite structured and tight as it goes. Minerality plays a part, with a salinity to the acidity as well, that gives an al dente bite as a contrast to the body and depth. Great drive and length into a mouth-filling finish of superb length. 96pts
