Rounding out the rest of the box that was waiting for me on my ‘return to New Zealand’ – with a slew of bold reds from both Europe and Australia. Laithwaites have a real strength in Aussie reds, I find. And you can hardly set a foot wrong with that – there’s so much to like about a bold red from a warm climate. The best of Australian reds can easily cellar for twenty years, but can equally be drinking very well on release. Here are my thoughts on this selection…
Moss Brothers Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2023 The Western Australia wine region has many of that nation’s great styles, including top-drawer Chardonnay and Cabernet but also ‘SBS’ – a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The Margaret River sub-region is where Moss Brothers have been making wine since 1984, including this classic white blend. Pale, fresh and bright, you’ll find crisp citrus of course, but look for more tropical fruits as well, with guava and melon alongside. For a NZ customer, this is an interesting twist on Sauvignon flavours we’re used to. Focussed, zesty and with a decent length, it is a fine choice for summer drinking. 91pts
Claymore Whole Lotta Love Sangiovese Rose is a wine from the Claymore Wines team who are based in the Clare Valley in South Australia – many of their wine labels are music and/or football themed! Made from an early pick of their Sangiovese grapes, the colour is a clear, pale peachy pink in the glass. Scented with watermelon, crisp citrus and summery raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruits. The palate is quite dry, with a fresh acidity showing off the juicy flavours. The finish is crisply mouth-watering and persistent. Rosé takes in the best qualities of white and red wines, and is an easy match to lots of food. 90pts
Amoras de Portugal 2021 – continuing on the journey around the globe with Laithwaites -‘Amoras de Portugal’ is from the area south of the capital Lisbon, made by José Luis Oilveira da Silva. A combination of local varietals – Castelão, Camarate, Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet. Oak frames the deep red fruit, lending flavours of vanilla and toasty cedar. There is a real feel of hot climate to the palate – with a ripe juiciness to the cherry, blackcurrant and damson coating the tongue. There is a sweetness that you don’t really find in wines locally, but it suits the style and this will work both as a BBQ summer wine, or as an accompaniment to antipasto and charcuterie. 89pts
Taylors ‘Heritage Release’ Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 A founding member of’ Australia’s First Family of Wines’, Taylors have been in Clare Valley since the late ‘60s. Good Cabernet is distinctive, and this has the essential scents of blackcurrant, graphite, dark cocoa, plum and lavender. Medium bodied, with a balance that many Aussie reds would be envious of. Intensely fruity, with oak, tannin and acidity all in shadowy, supporting roles, providing backbone and structure but not intruding. A dry, savoury finish. 92pts
The Black Pig Merlot 2022 McLaren Vale may be better known historically for its classic Shiraz, and in recent times for a new wave of Grenache… but you shouldn’t underestimate the Merlot from this sub-region in South Australia. Typical of Merlot, the perfume is brimming with ripe plum, backed up with bramble, and a lovely green edge of gum, sage and crushed herbs. A gentle season of spice and vanilla from the oak and fine, softer tannins. Smooth and well-rounded, it is a great all-rounder. 89pts
Le XV du President 2022 The Languedoc region of southern France has some of the world’s best Grenache vineyards – some over 100 years old. The vines here can produce wines that are in line with the blockbuster reds of the Barossa in Australia. Here you’ll find fleshy dark fruits – blackberry, raspberry and red cherries saturating the palate, backed by texture and tannin to match. Supple, velveteen and generous. The succulent fruit is rich and flows into the glossy finish with real staying power. 90pts
Strout Road Vintners McLaren Vale Cabernet Malbec 2021 There’s no doubt that Laithwaites have a tempting library of McLaren Vale wines. In this plush red combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, the nose shows characters of both varietals. Blueberry and exotic spice meets cassis and pomegranate. Some firm tannin keeps things in check, but the intensity and concentration bleeds into the palate – vigorous and smile-inducing. A little herbal and spice around the edges, but it is all about that ripe, slinky fruit. A long, drying finish. 92pts
Marauding Vintners Doctor Durif 2023 In California, Durif is often known as Petite Syrah, and the varietal is considered to be a cross of Syrah and Peloursin grapes. The ‘Doctor Durif’ has the tell-tale glass-staining black colour and equally dark aromas of bramble, liquorice, cassis, cherry and black pepper. As well as fruity notes, look for a mocha element in the palate that is distinctive and appealing. You’d expect a big red from South Australia to have weight and ripeness, and you won’t be disappointed here. A sleek, fruity wine with plenty of tannin, structure too. 89pts
