A Martinborough Pinot Noir from this well-regarded producer, in a vintage generally described as ‘above average’ but not a classic. A medium-density burgundy colour in the glass, with a slight opacity. The nose seems shy, with a savoury edge of mushroom and peat, and just a waft of red cherry, plum, cardamom, rose petal and raspberry with a firm swirl of the glass. There’s a lovely balance to the palate, with fine tannin and an acidity that skims through. Fruit is ripe but delicate and the fine-boned nature of the body is tuned to a silky texture that wraps itself around everything. I expected more evolution and direction on subsequent tastes, but this didn’t happen, and the finish was still ethereal and wispy, with no great persistence. 89pts
Kusuda Pinot Noir 2011
