I think that readers will know the story by now. I was approached by Laithwaites – the longest-running ‘wine subscription service’ in the world, to review their offerings, and once every couple of months I’ll be sent a box of wines. I don’t choose these, so it is always a treat to open and see what I have in front of me. There’s always – every time – at least one wine that I wouldn’t have thought to pick for myself, so it is lovely to have these boxes arrive and surprise me. This time the wines are no different – with a mix of whites and reds, and a sparkling.
In the time I’ve been getting a look at their products I have to say I’ve been impressed with the quality and range on offer. If you’re accustomed to buying your wine from a major outlet – a high street bottle shop or a supermarket let’s say – then I would recommend having a browse of the Laithwaites website – laithwaites.co.nz and trying one of their mixed starter boxes. Take yourself on a journey of discovery.
These are the wines from the box that arrived in June…
McPherson ‘Bubbly Personality’ Sparkling 2023. Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (your classic sparkling combination) by Jo Nash and the team at McPherson Wines. The bubbles are quite vigorous, in a busy rush of fine creaminess. Perfumed with crisp fruit – lemon, white peach, greengage and strawberry, with plenty of yeasty baking spice and jasmine florals. A good balance of bright upfront fruit and deeper structural elements that offer elegance and complexity. An essential party starter. 89pts
Domaine de Paris Cotes de Provence Rosé 2021. Rosé from Provence tends to set the tone for the world stage – the modern lightness of coral pink colour and dry palate came from how the southern French made theirs – and the world copied. Here’s one made from 50 year old Syrah and Grenache vines. That ideal ‘strawberries and cream’ is also here (the flavour and the texture). Elegantly dry and crisp, there is acidity and a generous red berry fruit right to the zippy, mouthwatering finish. 91pts
Credaro Family Estate ‘Five Tales’ Margaret River Chardonnay 2021. This will be a pleaser for NZ tastebuds. Where many top Aussie Chardonnays have turned steely and lean, this one from an excellent grower has plenty of generous tropical fruits to go with the citrus and stonefruit flavours. Even a touch of caramel, almond and vanilla from the oak adds weight and depth. Succulent and with a creamy texture, there is also a fine line of acidity that keeps everything moving along. Baking spices feature, and all the way there is balance and finesse. The finish is clean, long and dry. 93pts
Marauding Vintners ‘Miss Grigio’ Pinot Grigio 2023. Packed with crisp, bountiful flavours so typical of the variety – pear, brioche, ginger, lychee, grapefruit and honeysuckle. I’d served this well chilled as an aperitif. The palate has great flow from the zesty acidity, and there is a move from that steely green entry, into warmer, baking spice and breadcrumb notes as the wine evolves. I also liked the way that the texture gradually encircled all the fruit, giving a smooth, elegant finish. A great food wine – at any time of year. 88pts
The Black Pig “The Prize” McLaren Vale Shiraz 2021. Another in the line of very good South Australian Shiraz that Laithwaites offer from this label. The colour oozes richness – a dense dark purple. There is plum, boysenberry, black pepper and blackberry on the nose. A bold, full-bodied red that has that certain milk cocoa note that defines McLaren Vale, but also a bit of smoky spice as well. Plenty of toasty oak and generous tannin add backbone to that glossy juiciness. 91pts
Elderton ‘East Wing’ Barossa Shiraz 2021. Barossa wines are considered to be ground zero for Shiraz, and with good reason. They simply deliver! Plush flavours of cherry, bramble, mulberry and plum, plus the signature black pepper. The vanilla scent arrives courtesy of the oak, with a touch of baking spice along for the ride. The texture here is a soft cocoon that fills the mouth. Acidity is juicy and gives flow through the palate, into a gently spiced, warm finish. 90pts
Palacio del Conde Gran Seleccion 2019. Tempranillo from the Valencia region of Spain – 20km inland and about 100km south of Valencia itself. Where much of Spain’s reds used to be big, muscular styles, a new wave sees wines that are distinctly medium-bodied being made, and enjoyed. Flavours of redcurrant, raspberry, plum, fruitcake and toasted spice. There is plenty of oak to note here, and a vanilla-flecked flavour that comes from that seeps through the palate. 89pts
Dark Corner Durif Shiraz 2022. Made by winemaker David Joeky as a side project, with fruit from South Eastern Australia. If you’ve had Durif before, you’ll know to expect a flamboyantly ripe, weighty and spicy Aussie red. Dark colour and dark flavours of cherry, blackberry, liquorice, pepper and cacao nib. The fruit is central, with oak, tannin and acidity are all in alignment and supporting that plush fruit. There’s a distinctive espresso note at the back of the palate, and the finish is long and luxurious. 90pts
Cabalié 2023. A red blend, made from 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Carignan grapes from older vines in the Languedoc region in the South of France. Each varietals adds it’s character to the end result – a spicy, herbal and red-berry flavoured thriller. Ripe and intense yet smooth and succulent. The fruit is so rich and generous – you’ll be amazed at the concentration they have packed into this package. 88pts
Aluado Alicante Bouschet Reserva 2020. The big brother of a wine I’ve tried before – Alicante Bouschet is a rare varietal from Quinta de Porto Franco – north of Lisbon in Portugal. A mixture of jet black and magenta colours in the glass, with dense, ripe aromatics of plum, blackberry, cherry, boysenberry. Into the palate, there is a denser sense of sweetness – with notes of dried fruits, date and cherry cola. Supporting that fruit is a core of smoky oak, supple tannin and brisk acidity. Unashamedly broad-shouldered, it has a loud personality – quite unlike anything being made here in NZ – but good on it for being it’s own thing. 89pts
Marauding Vintners McLaren Vale Capt. Cabernet. A dark, almost black colour. Gratifying to have such a ‘typical’ Cabernet Sauvignon character in the glass – from the blackcurrant, pencil shavings, capsicum, damson and lavender, to a delicious herbal ‘mintiness’. Quite elegant rather than jammy, that’s not to say there isn’t a wealth of ripe dark berry fruit. A tight core of grippy tannin and enough oak to place a solid frame around the fruit. A wine like this is a delight to drink now (open an hour before drinking – decant if you can) but will keep and develop more complexity over a few years. 92pts
Pikes ‘Wilfred’s Block’ Clare Valley Cabernet Shiraz 2021. A fresh and vibrant expression of the classic Aussie red blend. Clare Valley often has fruit in the blue spectrum and a herbal brightness that gives a lighter, racy style. Redcurrant, cherry, blueberry and cassis, with a bon-bon sweetness and jewel-like quality. Driven by a keen line of acidity, bringing those ripe flavours to the fore. 91pts
