Now, I’m not much of a Sauvignon Blanc drinker – what I do quite like is getting a top-drawer bottle, like this one, and putting them away for a few years. The results are usually well worth it – softening the acidity and drive of that sharp gooseberry fruit and adding some lovely mellowed-out brioche and honey notes – almost champagne-like characteristics.
This is a single vineyard wine from the stony soils of the Rapaura vineyards, where the Wairau river once flowed. It’s a touch darker in the glass than your average Sav. Maybe it’s the four years ageing in the bottle, but it’s a glowing lemon-yellow colour; and although the nose is big, it’s not as pungent in passionfruit as normal, carrying a touch of smokiness and an intense ripe fruit that’s more stonefruit and citrus-driven.
The palate is more of that ripe lusciousness, but now a green apple and white nectarine flavour shines through. There’s a good splash of acidity here, but tempered with a richness and layers of honey and fresh yeasty bread. Also a salinity that I like in a good varietal Sav; and a texture that’s reminiscent of a stretch of time on lees? The finish brings back the zing and a mouth-watering crispness.
One of the very best Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs I’ve had in ages – highly recommend this beauty – just remember to cellar it for a few years!
