The Trophy for Champion Wine of the Show at this year’s New Zealand International Wine Show was awarded to Brancott Letter Series ‘O’ Chardonnay 2022. I judged a couple of flights of the Chardonnay class at the show, and voted on the Champion Chardonnay, so can be held, in part, responsible for the success. So, what do I think of it, on a subsequent tasting? I also happen to have to hand an earlier vintage, from 2016 – so open that as well to have a glimpse at ageability.
The 2022 vintage that won the big gong is an instantly appealing wine – an attention-grabber that would certainly stand out in a blind tasting. A smoky waft of struck-match paves the way for aromas of grapefruit, hazelnut, nectarine and oatmeal biscuit on the nose. A fine balance between plushness of fruit and a steely acidity twangs into the palate. Add in a sweetly spiced lick of oak and a textural mid-palate, and it’s a complete package. The finish is persistent and dry. It’s definitely a high Gold medal score from me, and when you add in knowing the RRP at around $20, then it is a bargain to boot.
The 2016 vintage wine has much in common with the new expression from last year. Even more pronounced reductivity on the nose – time didn’t seem to have softened that smokiness and flint. The fruit was golden and unctuous – fattening up through the palate, with citrus turning to marmalade. A nutty, butteriness of oak and spice. Acidity was still good, propping up that lush generosity. I’m wondering if seven years was a bit long to have stored this one, and the prime drinking would be in the first 2-3 years?
